Kirigami Bed for Voron V0.2+

The Kirigami bed frame is made of metal, but may be bent out of spec during production, transport or mounting.

You should check the measurements, parallelism and coplanarity (flat in respect to each other) of the frame before starting your assembly.

The Kirigami nut block assumes a frame thickness of 2 mm, and is made to fit an absolute maximum frame thickness of 2.20 mm.

There should be 20 mm between the end of each of the flaps connecting to the rail carriages. The absolute minimum is 19.50 mm.

From the original Kirigami bed repository you need to print three parts. The nut block from VORON_v0.2_stealth_nut_block.stl will sit in the rear of the frame and connect it to the lead screw nut and thus the lead screw.

The chain mount ( VORON_v0.2_stealth_chain_mount.stl ) connects the cable chain to the metal frame.

Because the wiring from the cable chain will come in from the outside of the metal frame, print one VORON_v0.2_stealth_wire_guide.stl to guide the wires inside the metal frame while preventing them from rubbing on the metal.

From the LDO Voron V0 repository you need to print three parts. Stealth_Bed_Main_Body.stl should be printed in your accent color, as it will be mounted on the from of the metal frame.

Print the Kirigami_LDO_Breakout_Mount.stl in you primary filament or or a color that matches the color of your bed. This will be mounted on the inside of the metal frame, but can be seen from the outside.

Print the diffuser from [c]_Stealth_Bed_Diffuser.stl in a clear or translucent filament for the best effect. A white filament with minimum infill will also work.

These bed spacers from Steve Petersons Printer Stuff repository may not be included in a part-kit or PIF delivery (or hard to find, being so tiny!), but makes it much easier to correctly mount yout heated bed to the metal frame. You need to print three bed spacers ( Kirigami_Bed_Spacer.stl ) in you primary filament or a color that matches the color of your bed.

Your inserts should have one side with a smaller diameter that will allow you to seat it in the intended hole without force. After this, insert your soldering iron tip into the insert.

Nut Block, four inserts. Be very careful when inserting in the two lower holes as it may be easy to push the inserts straight through.

Chain Mount, three inserts. All from the same side.

Wire Guide, one insert on what will become the bottom of the wire guide.

Bed Front, two inserts. Be careful not to press the inserts all the way through the plastic.

Breakout Mount, three inserts. Two for attaching the mount to the bed frame, and one for later securing the joiner PCB.

Allign the diffuser correctly and press it carefully into the main body.

Attach the Neopixel PCB to the main body using two M3x6 BHCS screws . You inserted the heat set insert in the previous section.

Press two 3M hex nuts into slots at the bottom of the main body. If required, a tiny dab of superglue can help them stay in place.

We need to attach one of the end links from the cable chain to the bed frame in the next step. Reattaching the rest of the chain later makes the assembly a lot easier

If you are unsure what link to remove, remove the one with the most movement.

Place the Chain Mount on the Kirigami Frame. It is held in the correct position by one plastic bump and one screw.

Secure the Chain Mount using one M3x6 BHCS

Secure the end link you prepared in the last step using two M3x6 BHCS .

Install the Wire Guard. The Wire Guard is press-fit over two parts of the bed frame and secured using one M3x6 BHCS .

The open part of the Wire Guide should be towards what will be to top of the printer.

Your bed frame is assembled and ready to be attached to the rest of the printer!

Secure the bed frame to the carriages on the linear rails using eight M2x4 SHCS. Carefully apply a small amount of thread locker to the screws.

If this is a new build, continue reading the Voron Assembly Manual at page page 47 (V0.2 and V0.2R1). Return to this guide when you are ready to wire up the bed.